FROM ILHÉUS TO BOIPEBA, BETWEEN LANDS OF CACAO AND PALM TREES, WE CAME ACROSS BEACHES, COMMUNITIES AND NATURE OF THE WILDEST IN SOUTHERN BAHIA.
By RICARDO ABBAMONTE and MORGANA ZUCATELLI
ILHÉUS: ONE PLACE VERY LOVED.
The aircraft flies Ilhéus. From the window, you can see miles of beaches with blue sea surrounded by coconut trees before landing in the birthplace of Jorge Amado, being impossible to dissociate the city of Ilhéus of his most famous novel, "Gabriela, Cravo and Canela”.
Who comes to the city, located 450 km from Salvador/Bahia, and see those houses, streets, public buildings, churches and squares almost centennial and immortalized in the book, has the feeling that at any time the characters come to life. What few know is that even Jorge Amado was born in Ilhéus, but on a farm in the neighboring municipality of Itabuna and, of course, became the name of character in the book "Terras do Sem Fim”. In 1914, when Jorge was two years old, the Cachoeira river caused a flood so severe that many farmers, including his father, lost their cocoa plantations. Impoverished, the family had to move to Ilhéus, where they set up a factory clogs. They lived in a modest house until 1920, but fate did the father of Jorge Amado win the grand prize of the Federal Lottery. Enriched, he had built in the same place a sophisticated palace that nowdays is the Culture house of Jorge Amado, where you find books, documents, photographs and personal objects of the novelist - including his typewriter. Beloved was there that he wrote his first novel: "O País do Carnaval.”
Not far away, in Plaza Don Eduardo, is the bar Vesúvio in the book that belonged to Mr. Nacib character, but that never existed in the flesh. In fact, yours first owners were two Italians that named this in honor of the famous volcano on the land of their birth. Sold to a Portuguese married to a beautiful mulatto woman named Felipa, much admired by men of the time, it is likely that the Gabriela of Jorge Amado has been inspired by this girl of "generous hips” and cinnamon. Opened between 1919 and 1920, Vesúvio was, and remains, one of the favorite spots in town. Known for best kebab in the Northeast, the bar followed the wealth promoted by cocoa, making Ilhéus the most important city of Bahia.
Nearby of there is the cabaret Bataclan, another local who became famous on account of the book. It was a fun house with a casino, women, song and drink, frequented by the colonels of cocoa who came from their farms to do business. The owner and important dame of Bataclan, who also managed the activities of the girls was called Antonia Machadão - transformed into the novel by Maria Machadão. A replica of her bedroom, along with personal items, can be seen in the back of the second floor of the Bataclan.
In ruins until 1984, the Bataclan has restored its facade and then the building was expropriated by the city. Rebuilt, it became a cultural space, where today is offering a coffee shop, a restaurant and exhibition space, while a group of theater, with period costume, gives life to the cabaret for tourists who visit weekly.
Without a doubt it's worth knowing, not only the script of Jorge Amado and his work, but also, in whole Ilhéus, the largest resort of Bahia with 84 miles of beautiful beaches admired by turquoise waters.
Belvedere of Serra Grande
Where to stay
Where to eat
What to do
- Fazenda da Lagoa (island): Access for 42 miles of Highway Ilhéus – Canavieiras (municipality of Uma), 49 km (3 miles of land) – Phone: (73) 3236-6137 – www.fazendadalagoa.com.br. Reservations required. Makes the simple and natural, but with great refinement. The rooms of 140 square meters are a dream. Outside is a bowl of water with petals of lavender to take sand from feet.
- Cana Brava Resort (beach): Highway Ilhéus - Canavieiras, 24 km (Beach Canabrava) – Phone: (73) 3269-8000 – www.canabravaresort.com.br. Children can give peace to their parents and kayaking, zipline down to the lake formed by the Jairi river or playing on huge pool. For adults, stretching on the beach in the morning and dinner show at the end of the day.
- Eco resort Tororomba (beach): Highway Ilhéus - Canavieiras, 20 km (Beach Canabrava) – Phone: (73) 3234-1400 – www.tororomba.com.br. The Jairi river that crosses the land and gives way to the lake, across the highway. The kids will love kayaking to cross under the track, while parents go to the side, lowered the underground corridor.
- Hotel Jardim Atlântico (beach): Highway Ilhéus - Canavieiras km 2 (South Beach) – Tel: (73) 3632-4711 – www.hoteljardimatlantico.com.br. Old but very well maintained. Adults will jump headlong into the semi-olympic pool, with passage to the bar. In the water maze, the kids have fun in the 14 wells connected by underwater tunnels. Do not accept checks.
- Hostel Praia do Sol (beach): Highway Ilhéus - Canavieiras, Km 0 (South Beach) - Phone: (73) 3234-7000. Repaired and expanded the rooms now equipped with two king-size beds, goose feather pillows and TV 21'. It is near the airport, between the road and the beach. Do not accept checks.
- Hostel dos Hibiscus (beach): Highway Ilhéus - Olivenca, Km 02 (South Beach) – Phone: (73) 3632-1080 – www.pousadadoshibiscus.com.br. Small but with excellent view of the Millionaires beach. Has pool and TV. Near the airport.
- Armação: Beach of Millionaires – Phone: (73) 3632-1817. Serve fish.
- Cabana da Empada: Highway Ilhéus - Itacaré, Km 28 – Phone: (73) 3231-5444 / 9981-6750. The owner creates shrimps and crustaceans in receipts from the house. Business travelers in a hurry to eat the delicious pies, sold in the cafeteria.
- Bataclan: Avenue 2 de Julho, s/n Centro – Phone: (73) 3634-0088. Offers beer doubled (every Friday to show live), feijoada (every Saturday with musical entertainment), a kilogram Buffet (every day from 11am to 2pm), La Carte (every day from 6pm to 11pm) and the highest wine list of Cocoa Coast.
- Eco Park Uma: The jungle trail shows how live rare species such as lion tamarin and the golden-faced capuchin yellow breast. After walking on hanging bridges among the treetops, the adventure ends with a swim in the river Maruim. Orbit Agency – Phone: (73) 3234-3250.
- Morro de Pernambuco: Morro de Pernambuco, one of the "Ilhéus" which gave name to the captaincy, located in the Pontal, at the mouth of rivers Waterfall, Santana and Fundão. The peninsula offers a panoramic view of the Ilhéus Bay and houses an old lighthouse that signaled the entrance of the harbor.
- Ilhéus theater: Considered one of the best theaters in the north and northeast of Brazil, this theater presents a magnificent architecture opened in 1932 (R. Dom Pedro II).
- Paths of Jorge Amado: The life and work of the writer may be known at the Casa de Cultura (Rua Jorge Amado, 21 – Phone: 73 3634-8986), his former residence. The bar Vesúvio (Praça D. Edward, 190 – Phone: 73 3634-2164), famous in the novel Gabriela, Cravo and Canela, promotes all nights a staged starry by the characters Gabriela and Nacib. A block from there is the old cabaret Bataclan (Avenue 2 of July – Phone: 73 3633-7670).
- Northern Beaches: A group of eight beaches, little frequented or semi-desert, spread over 34 km between Ilhéus and Itacaré. Ponta da Tulha, Mamoã, Coqueiros and Ponta do Ramo belong to Ilhéus, while Barra do Sargi, Pé de Serra and Pompilho are in the small town of Uruçuca, 6 km.
- More tourist information: www.ilheusdabahia.tur.br
Vesúvio Bar and the Catedral in the background
Bataclan frontage
PENÍNSULA DE MARAÚ: A PLACE TO MAKE YOUR TRIP UNFORGETTABLE AND TO LIVE GREATLY THE BEST OF NATURE.
The Peninsula de Maraú attracts visitors from around the world for its natural beauty, bringing together a wide variety of unique landscapes. Are huge palm trees, beaches, dozens of islands, waterfalls, rivers, ponds, natural pools of clear water, mangroves, rainforest and lots of wildlife, which may be known by bicycle, motorcycle, boat, and, especially, the board calls bib (adapted with tanks jeeps). Another attraction of Maraú is your own town, presenting a warm and friendly community of natives and people from around the world who elected this piece of paradise as housing.
The city, originally called Mayrahú, has its origins in a Indian village called Mayra. It was discovered in 1705 by Capuchin friars, who gave the name of São Sebastião of Mayrahú in 1938.
The legend has it that Marau´s wife, the native-Brazilian Saquaíra, was seduced by Camamu and fell in love with him. One day, when Maraú had gone out to fish, Camamu shored his speed canoe and dragged Saquaíra off to live in his lands of endless beauty. A desperate Maraú asked the gods for a canoe as fast as Camamu´s in order to find his love and went off sculpting the peninsula´s landscapes.
Across the peninsula there are hotels, resorts, inns and campgrounds, besides bars and restaurants with specialties ranging from international cuisine to typical Brazilian regional food. So here you go:
Where to stay
Where to eat
What to do
How to get there
- Kiaroa Eco-Luxury Resort: Beach Bombaça – Phone: (71) 3258-6213 / 3272-1320 - www.kiaroa.com.br. Do not admit children under 12 years. The deal here is the law of least effort. When you tire of the pool you can jump to the grassy island in the middle of the water, where are the chairs. At breakfast, couscous and tapioca soursop juice.
- Ekoa: Mutá beach – Phone: (71) 3258-6187 – www.ekoa.com.br. The cottages are not only beautiful on the outside. Inside you will find spacious and comfortable. The land of 10 thousand square ends on the beach.
- Lagoa do Cassange: Cassange Beach – Phone: (71) 3255-2348 – www.maris.com.br. Besides the quiet, warm climate, whimsical decor and beds to sunbathe on the sand, there is a deserted beach with turquoise sea and the reef a few feet away, without saying the beautiful little beach of fresh water that stands back the inn. Here you will feel at home.
- Hostel Taipú de Fora: Beach Taipú de Fora – Phone: (71) 3258-6278 – www.taipudefora.com.br. Half the rooms have air-conditioned quiet and have TV's top category 29', DVD and hair dryer. In the beautiful garden hammocks, sofas and beds to relax.
- Hostel Encanto da Lua: Beach Taipú de Fora – www.pousadaencantodalua.com.br. All rooms have king-size beds and TV's 20'. The lawn is full of kiosks with nets and beach of Taipú de Fora is right there.
- Casa do Jorge: Island of Sapinho, order with Camamu Adventure – Phone: (78) 3258-6236 – www.camamuadventure.com.br. Grilled lobster, grilled crab, guaimun and pitu.
- Mucanaíma: Beach of Barra Grande – Phone: (78) 3258-6263. Romantic atmosphere and good cocktails.
- Boat Isles: The first bath is near a sandbar in the middle of the bay. On the island Pedra Fura happens to stop for photos. After passing through the mangroves of the Camp, all had lunch on the island of Thrush. Camamu Adventure - Phone: (71) 3258-6236 and Maris - Phone: (71) 3258-2166.
- Jeep Tours to Taipú de Fora, Lagoa Azu and Mirantes: From board of a gardener you tames the coast of the Peninsula of Marau. In Taipú de Fora beach break to swim in natural pools after the baths will on Blue Lagoon. The tour ends with two viewpoints: ‘Farol de Taipú’ and ‘Morro de Bela Vista’. Drivers get the point of every day in bib in the village of Barra Grande (U$ 25).
- Barra Grande: The village more famous throughout the Peninsula de Maraú has face of yesteryear, namely: sandy streets, conversations at the door of the houses and bucolic square with a church, almond and capoeira. To visit the beaches of Taipú de Fora and Cassange boarding here in one of the gardeners who make the journey to them.
- Beach Cassange: Far from the bustle of Taipú de Fora and boats of Barra Grande, Cassange is a tumble beach, but on days with calm stretches form is good for swimming. Little structure and inns.
- Beach Taipú de Fora: To enjoy the scenery just sit in the bars around the skirt with comfortable loungers. But to get to know this beach rent a 'snorkel', swim by natural pool that is there and so enchanted with the flora and the fish that make up the region's marine life. The phenomenon happens only twice a month, when the tide is low.
- Beach Algodões: Further south the Algodões beach stretches for miles, with huge waves, coconut trees, fine and clear sand. It is the closest beach from Maraú town.
- Beach Bombaça: Is one of the darlings of surfers who, in addition to strong waves, identifies with the lack of infrastructure and the waterfront preserved. Even the pools have current.
- Beach Piracanga: If the idea is to surf go to Piracanga, the last beach of Maraú, on the border with Itacaré. There the waves tend to be stronger.
- Ilha da Pedra Furada: It's a private property open to visitors. The region is preserved by a man who lives alone in place, without electricity.
- The Peninsula de Maraú is located in Camamu Bay, the third largest in Brazil. To get there, the best option is to cross the bay by boat leaving from Camamu and arriving at the pier of Barra Grande, Campinho or Porto de Jobel. Another option that appeals the adventurous most radical is the access by land, Ubaitaba or Itacaré.
- Attention: Who came from BR 030, toward the beaches of Cassange, Taipú de Fora and Barra Grande, are miles of dirt road, recommended driving, even in daylight, with headlights on and no more than 60 km/h, even if in some places the road is apparently good. Sometimes it has holes and abrupt braking, usually resulting in a skid or rollover.
Cassange Lagoon
Children in a community school
Talpú de Fora
Sunrise on the Peninsula
To see the boat and bus schedules, visit www.guiademarau.com.br
BOIPEBA ISLAND: ONE OF THE MOST BEAUTIFUL, CHARMING AND ENCHANTING ISLANDS IN A SCENARIO FAVORED BY NATURE.
Boipeba Island is one of the most beautiful scenery in the Brazilian coast, where time seems not to pass. A charming and diverse place, that blending the tranquility of paradise islands with the energy of a destination where the watchwords are: fun and relaxation. All this surrounded by crystal clear waters and sunshine almost all year.
When the vessel arrives at Boca da Barra, in Vila da Velha Boipeba, the scenery is magical. A white sand beach surrounded by coconut trees sits in front of another beach of an identical design, one river and the other ocean. Between them, in the river which gives way to the sea, dozens of boats are anchored and fishermen carry ice, weave hammocks, come and go to sea.
Located in Cairú, unique municipality archipelago in Brazil, with thirty-six islands in a landscape fascinating, 261 km from Salvador, the Ilha de Boipeba reserve a bucolic and charm to tourists. The strong point of the island is the landscape that impressive by beauty and perfection.
The Inferno River separates Boipeba of the Tinharé Island. This place looks a little corner of paradise, where you only hear the sound of water that quietly meets the sea. The evening, there will be the setting for an unforgettable spectacle of nature: the sun with a fantastic mix of colors.
The Village of Boipeba is endowed of an infrastructure ready to accommodate the visitors. Are small inns and some restaurants that offering regional delicacies. Furthermore, it has an architecture that expresses, in the color and forms of your home, the taste of the population. There is everywhere the cultivation of flowers adorning the facades as in Ribeirinho Street, where you can find the Museum Island, with a large collection of curiosities assembled by Mr. Tavinho (fisherman responsible by the museum).
The island – which only runs by foot, bicycle or horseback through the streets of sand –, is divided into two main nuclei: Boca da Barra, where is the small pier, trade and services; and the Moreré beach, more quiet, but also with some infrastructure available to tourists, who can enjoy unforgettable moments of witnessing the formation of a lush coral reef.
To visit Boipeba have to enjoy peace of quiet, of walking, of riding, of diving, of sightseeing by canoe through the mangroves. Have to like beaches, of natural pools, of starry nights, of know the town and its villages. Finally, of discover the secrets of this enchanting island.
One of the many nameless beaches on the Boipeba Island
Foreign tourists
Pier at the mangroves near Torrinhas, one of the places of shipment to reach Boipeba Island
The trip from Torrinhas to Boipeba by boat is divine
Boats moored at the pier: the first impression when arriving
Going to Pontal Farm
Where to stay
Where to eat
What to do
How to get there
- Boipeba Eco Lodge: Island of Sao Miguel - Phone: (75) 3653-6012 – www.boipebaecolodge.com.br. The friendly small inn is located on an island which is only five minutes by boat from the beach of Boca da Barra. The rooms are well kept and comfortable. And still have televisions flat panel display.
- Hostel Mangabeiras: Boca da Barra – Phone: (75) 3653-6153 – www.pousadamangabeiras.com.br. Closes in June. In any of the rooms, the beautiful landscape coexists with modern appliances, TV with 21' flat screen, DVD, air-conditioning and king-size bed. The breakfast is delicious, with fresh items and eggs made to order.
- Alizes Moreré: Moreré Village (20 minutes by boat or 1:30 on foot from Boca da Barra) – Phone: (75) 3653-6180 – www.alizeesmorere.com. Minimum two-night reservation is required. Stay on top of the hill overlooking the beach Moreré. The best place for those who want to know the beautiful, and still little visited, natural pools in the village. Only open by reservation.
- Maliale Inn (riverside): Praia da Ilha de São Miguel – Phone: (75) 3653-6134 – www.pousadamaliale.com.br. Open in May and June. It is located on an island five minutes by boat from Boca da Barra. Good choices for those who enjoy water sports.
- Pousada Vila Sereia (beach): Boca da Barra – Phone: (75) 3653-6045 – www.vilasereia.com.br. Reservations required. Every charming and well-kept bungalows with wood covered with palm fiber and palm oil. In the morning, so you open the window, an employee will appear with a basket full of goodies for breakfast.
- Native Canoe Inn: Rua da Praia, 55 – Phone: (75) 3653-6262 / 8242-1986 – canoanativa@gmail.com – www.ilhaboipeba.org.br/canoanativa.html. Their friendly and young Italian owners (Gulia and Jury) will provide a excellent and spacious cottages, plus a delicious breakfast.
- Pousada Horizonte Azul: Boca da Barra – Phone: (75) 3653-6080 – www.pousadahorizonteazul.com. With very zen atmosphere and oriental massages. Also offers to yours guests the opportunity to know and to work with an interesting hydroponic garden for those who like to tinker on earth.
- Pousada Santa Clara: Boca da Barra – Phone: (75) 3653-6085 – www.santaclaraboipeba.com.br. Well located and one of the inns that receive most foreign.
- Pousada dos Ventos: Moreré Beach – Phone: (75) 3653-8913 – www.ilhaboipeba.org.br/dosventos.html. Friendly bungalows for those who want to sleep in paradise.
- Horizonte Azul Restaurant: Boca da Barra – Phone: (75) 3653-6080 – www.pousadahorizonteazul.com. Vegetarian food.
- Santa Clara Restaurant: Boca da Barra – Phone: (75) 3653-6085 – www.santaclaraboipeba.com.br. With friendly and unique way of presenting the menu by the American owner Charles. It's worth knowing.
- Chez Iris & Igor: Town Boipeba, New Street – Phone: (75) 3653-6198. Good music and tasty dinners, with delights such as the Moroccan couscous.
- Snorkeling Reef: With its pristine turquoise waters, beautiful tropical fish and coral. This tour is suitable for those who like to swim with 'snorkel'.
- Trip around the island: Besides seeing all beaches close on the island of Boipeba in a complete tour around the island, visiting the beaches of Cueira, Moreré and the village of São Sebastião "Cova da Onça", you can dive into pools of Moreré and take a bath in a semi-deserted beaches of Bainema and Ponta dos Castelhanos. (R$ 25).
- Ponta Castelhanos Beach: When the tide is low, on clear waters of summer, who sinks can see a Spanish ship wrecked in 1535, and sharp coral reefs. For those who just want good bath waters of the river clear and calm beach guarantee the program. Beach without infrastructure with extensive coconut groves. Access on foot (3h30) or by boat (1h30) from Boca da Barra.
- Beach Bainema: It won fame among bathers more demanding to be almost deserted, even in summer, and has calm waters. Access on foot (2h) or by boat (1h) from Boca da Barra.
- Beach Moreré: The waves bounce off in a barrier of reef distant from the beach (10 minutes by boat), where the vessels coming from Morro de São Paulo stop for a swim in natural pools. From there to the edge of what is seen is a natural water body with shallow, warm and full of marine life. Access on foot (1h10) or by boat (40min.) from Boca da Barra.
- Beach Cueira: Despite the surfers dotting on left side, the sea is not rough. The tranquility reigns and the coconut trees that surround the beach provide the necessary shade. There is not inns and only one tent to serve in low season. Access on foot (35 min.) from Boca da Barra.
- Hike to Cova da Onça: The name ‘Cova da Onça’ comes from the fact that a small cave was found, where it is believed that an image of Saint Sebastian was left by the Jesuits. This cave was used by the Jesuits as a refuge when fleeing the attacks of the indigenous people.
- Morro do Quebra Cu: Belvedere for anyone contemplating the sunset, in the late of afternoon, with 360° views of the island.
- Ponto das Ostras: Place where are served raw oysters, with sauce and salt.
- Mangrove tours: Want to venture through the medicinal waters sweet of the river and salty of the sea, to try a clay bath in the swamp, to enjoy the diversity of seafood and to watch the many birds and animals of the region? Then look for the experienced and friendly guide Iran – Phone: (75) 3653-6123 / 9912-8451.
- Pontal Farm: On the other side of the Boipeba Island (crossing the Rio do Inferno) you will find a fantastic and gigantic structure of the sea farm with dairy production (impossible not to try a delicious yogurt), cattle, coconut palms and even the airport. The Italian owner, Fabio Perville, is owns of almost 70% of the whole Island, and he is responsible for launching the first commercial center of Boipeba with shops, offices and apartments.
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From Salvador have several options:
By road: The best option is to use the ferry system "Salvador – Bom Despacho" (1h/ferry and 20 min by catamaran) until the Itaparica Island, where you can take the BA-001 highway, passing through the Nazaré das Farinhas to the city of Valença. In Valença there are boats and speedboats leaving for Boipeba, lasting 30 min. (speedboat) until 4:30 by boat. If you're in Morro de São Paulo, you can rent 4x4 cars leaving to Boipeba on a trip of 1h30.
Road Distances
- Bom Despacho/Valença: 114 km
- Valença/Nilo Peçanha: 27 km
- Nilo Peçanha/Torrinhas: 19 km
- Travessão/Nilo Peçanha: 88 km
By air: For those who want a faster trip and overview, daily flights leave from the International Airport of Salvador and land on the Pontal Farm, in front of Boipeba, in a journey at about 30 minutes. Access: www.boipeba-ddey.com.br.
By Sea: To go from Salvador to Morro de Sao Paulo. In front of the Modelo Market leave catamarans and motorboats. The trip involves skirting the coast and takes on average 2h30. In Morro de Sao Paulo has speedboats to Boipeba, in just 1h30. If you prefer, rent a jeep provided by local agencies.
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From Ilhéus:
For those beginning the trips by Ilhéus, take the road 001 towards Itacaré and then, go on to Maraú, Camamu, Igrapiuna, Ituberá, Nilo Pecanha and Torrinhas. In Nilo Peçanha get tuned, because the access to Torrinhas is an entry where there is an old chimney, taking the road toward to Cairú city. After twelve miles from this point you should take the detour to the right and to follow the dirt road. Try to arrive in Torrinhas before hours of the ferry docks (06am, 11am and 02pm).
Warning: The access to Boipeba Island is by boat, taking several hours to reach its main towns. To continue the trip to the island it is necessary to leave the car parked in Torrinhas city (R$10 per day) and take a boat (R$8 per person – 1h10) or a speedboat (R$60 per person – 25').
Hut in the village of Monte Alegre
Tent in the village of Boipeba
House in the village Velha de Boipeba
Artisan and craft
Many tour options
The river meets the sea
Native of Boipeba
Moreré is one of the most charming places on island
IMPORTANT TO KNOW:
Having cash in hand is essential. There are no banks in Barra Grande nor in Boipeba. Also, most places only accept cash. And, when you go to Boipeba and Taipú de Fora, always check the tide tables to avoid losing the natural pools.
TIPS:
- Love and respect nature.
- On the beach only walk or cycle.
- Contribute to peace and quiet.
- Pratic fish watching scuba diving.
- Drink lot water and use sunblock and wear a hat.
- Have an insect reppeler.
- Respect local culture.